CA18DET Over the Top (CA16DE) Intake Manifold Install (Part 2)
Jul 11, 2008 Tech (CA18DET 240SX, S13)
Related Links
- CA18DET Over the Top (CA16DE) Intake Manifold Install (Part 1: What and Why)
- CA18DET Over the Top (CA16DE) Intake Manifold Install (Part 2: Prep)
- CA18DET Over the Top (CA16DE) Intake Manifold Install (Part 3: Vacuum and Wiring)
Whereas part 1 covered the what and why of installing the Nissan Pulsar over the top intake manifold onto the CA18DET, this second part covers the ever important how. And although there are quit a few steps involved, the process of modifying the manifold to fit the CA18DET is simple none the less.
Recommended Tools
- angle grinder with both grinding and cutting wheels
- drill with 1/2″ and 3/8″ bits
- small grinding tool (Dremel) or grinding stones for drill
- JB Weld
- RTV silicone (red or black)
- 1 can Gumout
- 1 can high temp engine enamel (spray paint)
- 1/2″ threaded brass plumbing adapter (hardware store)
- 2 x 1/4″ brass plugs
- tap and die set
- long wire bristle pipe cleaners (plumbing supply)
- assortment of 10mm, 12mm, 14mm wrenches and sockets
- philips head screwdriver
- air compressor or can of compressed air (computer cleaner)
Process
The pictures below (with captions) highlights the procedure I used to modify and install the new manifold. I would like to note that I do not use the cold start on my motor and therefore do not include that in the write up. I also run the water line mod (CA18DET Water Mod (Simplify Water Circulation)) so my end result looks a lot less “busy” than a typical manifold. However, this method should give you enough of an idea to keep the coolant and idle routing stock if desired. Finally, it is assumed you are using the factory CA18DET lower manifold with the “new” over the top manifold as the CA18DET fuel rail does not bolt up to the Pulsar’s manifold.
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- This is the CA16DE (Pulsar) over the top manifold before disassembly.
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- Disassemble everything from the upper manifold. This includes the cold start, IAA, AAC and EGR.
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- Drill the two indicated holes with the 1/2″ drill bit. The rest of the holes are drilled to 3/8″.
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- Temporarily fit the throttle body and then test fit the manifold. Note that the KA24DE throttle body slightly contacts the valve cover.
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- Remove the valve cover from the intake side and us the angle grinder with grinding wheel and notch the cover where the throttle body made comtact. Note that this metal is thin so don’t take too much off. about 1-2 cm should suffice.
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- Test fit the manifold and valve cover to make sure you have removed enough material. Then remove the cover 1 more time for additional modification.
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- With the valve cover removed, cut this nipple close to its base.
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- Once cut, use a flat head screwdriver and fold the edges of what is left of the nipple inward. Then tap the piece into the valve cover using a hammer and extension.
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- Flip the cover over and remove the 6 screws holding the long metal plate in.
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- After removing the long plate, remove the short one and expose the back side of the nipple outlet. Now is also a good time to use a little bit of Gumout and clean the valve cover.
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- This is what is left when the base of the cut nipple is removed from the valve cover.
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- This is the inside of the valve cover (at the nipple) after threading a new fitting into the hole. This whole process has been done becaue the over the top manifold makes the clearance of the valve cover vent line very tight.
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- (Optional) I quickly sandblasted the valve cover to make way for a new coat of paint.
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- After painting the manifold, I tapped and then thread a new fitting into the outlet. (Note: This fitting ended up not working because it faced directly into the front engine plate. I ended up swapping it for a straight brass piece. Pictured later.)
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- Now flip the valve cover over and clean the inside one more time to remove any debris the tapping may have caused. Then reinstall the two plates using a thin strip of RTV on the edges. Finally, install the valve cover back on the motor. (Note the alternate brass fitting in the picture.)
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- Now disassemble the entire upper intake manifold. Make sure to remove the EGR plate from the back of the manifold.
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- Clean, clean, clean. The Gumout is your firend here. Spray the crap out of the manifold in a well ventilated area and scrub the insides with the wire brushes. Or you could sandblast it for quicker results.
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- Clean until the ports look like this.
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- Locate the EGR mount and cut the two bolts off.
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- After cutting the posts, fill the EGR hole with the JB Weld.
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- Flip the manifold around and pack JB Weld on the other side of the EGR feed.
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- Place RTV around the edge of the back plate and reinstall the plate. Once dry, wipe the excess RTV from the edges. The EGR system is now blocked.
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- Locate and remove the coldstart and the valve cover vent or PCV (next to cold start)
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- After removal, plug the valve cover vent (PCV) with a 1/4″ brass plug from the hardware store. (Note: I run my valve cover vents to an oil catch can. If you don’t do this, you will want to keep this connection and just use a short piece of heater hose from the manifold to the valve cover.)
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- Tap the coldstart hole.
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- Then thread the second 1/4″ plug into the hole.
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- Flip the manifold over once again and install the AAC and IAA from the CA18DET manifold to the new manifold. It will bolt up perfectly. (You can freshen up the gaskets with copper spray or a VERY thin coat of RTV)
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- Since we kept the CA18DET lower manifold, you can go ahead and remove the water lines as well as the sensor from the new upper manifold.
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- I cut the wate routlet close to the base because it interfered with the simplified coolant routing.
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- Now install the throttle body. Note that with the KA24DE throttle body you have the option to port the manifold opening to match the throttle. This is optional but recommended.
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- The CA18DET awaiting the final installation.
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- Install the CA16DE manifold one last time.
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- The manifold and turbo is now installed. Check back for part 3 when I install the custom charge pipe and hook up all the plumbing.
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